Winestruck | Terroir gems #1

We love discovering hidden wine gems, and I can feel the winter chill running down my spine as I write this. They called upon the expertise of Rosa Kruger to assess the viability of growing vines in this marginal climate. And I bet my bottom dollar that the winemaker Johan Kruger will profess this to be pure labour of love at an altitude between 1400 and 1700m above sea level. A continental terroir, they call it, where if you get it right, the intensity of colour and flavour might just have the power to erupt a sleeping volcano. The altitude aids both light intensity and cool temperatures to produce characterful wines, and low humidity makes it ideal for organic practices. And apart from the deep shale and clay soils, the wines are influenced by volcanic soils from the dormant volcano called Salpeterkop.

Our first visit to Rogge Kloof was purely out of curiosity to taste the wines from this region. However, after discovering this eco-friendly guest farm, we will definitely be back to learn more about the area.

Andre and Corlia welcomed us for an early breakfast before we settled in to join them for a wine tasting that afternoon. Sutherland is a sought-after destination for star chasers, and of course, we had plans for stargazing later that evening. Alas, a little word of advice would be to do your homework and to make sure which astral bodies are present in the night sky. Instead of stargazing, we were moonstruck and will be back for a black sky. With big dreams of creating their own wine legacy on this

18 000-hectare reserve, the wines remained the hero of this visit.

The estate dates back to 1756 and covers a total area of 

22 500 hectares, including the volcano. Located in the Roggeveld, a plateau in the Karoo region of the Northern Cape, the name is derived from wild rye, which was once plentiful in the area. The Roggeveld Mountains, lying west of the plateau in the Northern Cape, are named after it. The range forms the western escarpment of the Roggeveld plateau and separates it from the lower-lying Tankwa Karoo to the west. Its highest peak is Sneeukop (1739 m), situated northwest of Sutherland. To the southwest lies Salpeterkop (1727 m), a distinctive conical mountain and an extinct volcano.

And this brings us to the wines that carry some of this volcanic character in their quality. One needs to respect and admire their origin and the tenacity of vines wanting to survive here. With as little as 2 tons per hectare, the proof lies in the intensity that will most definitely leave you wine struck. Here is what we tasted:

Sneeukop Chenin Blanc 

What is not to love about a wine that emits all the joy one can get from a Chenin Blanc. The pronounced intensity is nestled in aromas of quince and white peach, hemmed with a vivid note of lemon thyme, fennel and pear blossoms. A roasted almond note and creamy mouthfeel indicate a judicious use of oak as it allows the taste of tangy apple to shine. A lovely minerality persists alongside a bright acidity with a lingering saltiness and long finish.

Hobbes chardonnay 2020

Initially, the wine had a flinty struck match character, but as it warms up, it allures you with ripe nectarine, grapefruit, and spanspek. A seductive note of vanilla, almond, and cinnamon pancakes reel you in, creating a remarkable complexity. We loved the salty impression of smoked ham, adding a briny note that ushered more palate weight and length. The wine carries a lovely intensity and balance throughout, making it a super delicious choice.

Calvin Pinot Noir 2019

The wine is upfront with intense notes of sour cherry, nectarine, and violets, hemmed with deliberate sweet leather, red peppercorns, lavender, and tobacco notes. There is an ethereal appeal to this wine, and it is packed with character. It evolved beautifully in the glass, showing more aromas of potpourri and coriander seeds, complete with a tangy acidity and fine tannin grip.

Gemsbokkop 2016 Malbec and Cinsaut

The wine is reminiscent of freshly pruned roses, sweet basil, and liquorice. A choc-mint coolness surrounds the intense core of mulberry and plum. Superbly balanced, the intensity is lifted with a bright palate and integrated tannin.

Rogge Cloof Joachim Scholtz 2016 

Named after the first owner of Rogge Cloof, this is a blend of Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine has distinct aromas of wet tobacco, graphite, cloves, and crushed coriander seeds, but as it develops in your glass, ripe aromas of fruitcake, plum, and black cherry are nudged to the fore. Finally, enjoy the alluring bouquet of cherry blossoms, mace, and black pepper. Red wine lovers will adore the expressive character of this wine, complete with deft tannin and a solid structure. The wine celebrates the first vineyards in the Sutherland-Karoo region, yielding a shy 2.5 tons per hectare.

Salpeterkop Syrah 2016

This single-vineyard wine takes you straight to the roasted slopes of Cote Roti, alive with an old-world charm. The savoury appeal of this wine is expressed in flavours of black olive brine, tapenade, pepper, and cinnamon. In contrast, a perfume of violets, chocolate, mulberry, and black currant keeps you intrigued. This wine is a stalwart example of this region, with tenacious fruit imparting a lingering sweetness.

Read more about the part Rogge Kloof plays in the South African Cheetah Metapopulation Project and their commitment to keeping their carbon footprint as low as possible through eco-living, recycling, green energy, and respect for nature.

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